A Story Fueled by Support
As an author, I draw inspiration from life’s highs and lows, and your heartfelt encouragement during our Pacific crossing has been a lifeline. Your comments and messages on my posts have lifted our spirits through storms and setbacks, reminding me that every story—real or fictional—needs a supportive audience to thrive. The Marquesas, my dream destination, have proven to be the most challenging chapter of our seven-year sailing saga, yet they’ve gifted me a wealth of material for my next tale.
The Narrative of the Journey
For new readers, here’s a recap of our 2,500-mile sail from Panama to French Polynesia, a plotline filled with unexpected twists:
- We planned a month in Panama but were anchored there for five.
- We set out three times to cross the Pacific, only to turn back each time.
- Our freezer failed early in the voyage, wiping out my carefully prepared provisions—meals, meat, butter, and veggies—gone in a flash.
- In Panama, we invested $7,000 in a new forestay. The installer neglected Loctite, and by day 9, loose screws tore our jib.
- An emergency stop in the Galapagos cost $600 to repair the sail. Our engine, recently overhauled in Panama, leaked oil, requiring more repairs. The islands, however, were a vibrant interlude, their wildlife sparking ideas for future stories.
- Days after leaving the Galapagos, the forestay’s faulty installation caused another tear in our sail, unrepairable at sea. We took it down, a critical loss for our downwind passage.
- A Chinese fishing fleet nearly collided with us, their 200-foot ships looming like antagonists in a high-stakes thriller.
- At 650 miles from our destination, our year-old autopilot failed. We hand-steered in 9 to 10-foot waves and 20-knot winds, heaving to each night as exhaustion set in.
- Another encounter with a Chinese fishing fleet forced us to navigate around a 60-mile-long net in the dead of night.
- Then, our steering faltered. Dan, my real-life hero, spent a day heaved to, dismantling the pedestal to tighten a cable amidst heavy rocking—a scene worthy of any adventure novel.
- We reached Hiva Oa, only to learn a week later of a tsunami striking Russia. We spent a night hand-steering at sea to avoid the wave.
Crafting Resilience
The saga continues. Our sail is repaired, but our engine, fixed twice already, leaks oil relentlessly. The autopilot must be shipped to Tahiti for a warranty replacement. Dan faces the daunting task of dismantling the engine again to remove the turbocharger, hoping a local craftsman can fabricate a bypass part.
This passage has tested us like no other in seven years of sailing. A tsunami capping it off? That’s the kind of plot twist even I couldn’t dream up. Yet, these challenges are the raw material of storytelling, teaching me resilience and patience—qualities my characters often embody.
The Marquesas as Muse
The Marquesas, a group of 12 islands in French Polynesia (six inhabited, known for their rugged volcanic landscapes, rich Polynesian culture, and ancient tiki statues), are a writer’s dream. Their dramatic peaks and misty harbors feel like the setting for an epic tale.
Checking in was a bureaucratic adventure—online paperwork and a several-mile trek over a mountain to town, twice. The grocery store shocked us: $4 for a can of veggies, $12 for a dozen eggs, and scarce fresh greens. Food is expensive and limited because a supply ship arrives only every other week, its cargo dictating availability. I bought lettuce that wilted on the walk back. Dining out, at $20–$25 per meal, offered delicious meat and fish dishes with rice, but it’s a luxury. These details—the scarcity, the effort—shape the gritty realism I weave into my stories.
Characters and Connections
A familiar hull brought joy to our harbor: Eric on S/V Abayome, a friend from Curaçao where we shared scuba dives and outings. We rented a jeep to explore Hiva Oa, laughing and swapping stories that enriched my writer’s notebook. Meanwhile, our friends John and Shannon on S/V Charisma, who started the crossing with us, are ahead, sending photos of vibrant islands, cultural festivals, and clear waters teeming with mantas, dolphins, turtles, and sharks. The murky waters of the Marquesas have kept us from diving, but their images fuel my imagination for future scenes.
Abayome and Equus sailed to other islands, but not before a magical dinghy ride surrounded by a dolphin pod. Their acrobatic leaps and spins were a spectacle, hundreds filling the water around us—a moment I’ll weave into a story someday. Josie, Eric’s crewmate, and I snorkeled with them, though they were wary and swam off. These encounters remind me why I write: to capture the fleeting magic of the world.
Harvesting Inspiration
The Marquesas offer a bounty of wild bananas, pamplemousse, limes, and avocados, a godsend amid costly groceries. I cook one meal daily, leaning on canned and dry goods, each dish a small victory. These simple acts—gathering, cooking, surviving—mirror the resourcefulness of my characters, grounding my narratives in lived experience.
A Setting for Stories
The beaches are stunning, with palm-lined mountains rising from each harbor, a backdrop that feels crafted for drama. The locals are warm, and I manage with my limited French, as English is rare here. French Polynesia’s five island groups—Marquesas, Tuamotus, Society Islands, Gambier, and Austral—span over 1,000 miles, each offering unique inspiration.
Next, we’ll sail to the Tuamotus, where clearer waters promise diving adventures. We’re also awaiting S/V Whatever She Wants, our boat buddies from our first five years, arriving in four weeks from Panama. I wish them smooth seas, free of the breakages and fishing fleet scares we faced.
Writing Through the Adventure
Life at sea isn’t easy—breakages, storms, and tsunamis test us—but every day is a story unfolding. The hardships fade when I’m awestruck by a dolphin’s leap or a mountain’s silhouette. These moments fuel my writing, reminding me why I sail: to live stories worth telling. Sharing these incredible places with you, my readers, is a privilege. Your support means the world, and I’m grateful to have you along for this wild, wondrous ride.
